Posted by clara on Apr - 30 - 2012 under Riso
Ingredients

8 pugni di riso carnaroli più 1 per la pentola
2 funghi porcini freschi o surgelati (circa 200 gr)
50 gr di midollo di bue
2 bustine di zafferano
1 cipolla piccola
1 bicchiere di vino bianco secco
60 gr di grana o parmigiano grattugiato
80 gr di buon burro
Almeno mezzo litro di brodo di carne sgrassato e filtrato
Sale qb


Cuisine: Cooking time: 20-25 mins Serving: 4 people

 

Il risotto alla milanese classico viene spesso confuso col riso bianco con la cremolada come accompagnamento degli ossibuchi alla milanese: niente di più sbagliato. Oggi facciamo questo fiore all’occhiello della cucina milanese, nella gustosa variante con funghi porcini. Con funghi o senza una cosa però non deve assolutamente mancare, il segreto per una buona riuscita del piatto: il midollo di bovino, che potete facilmente reperire dal vostro macellaio. E ovviamente lo zafferano. Ma vediamo come si fa.

 

Esecuzione

affettate e tritate una piccola cipolla (ho usato quella rossa perché mi piace il contrasto di colore); affettate anche i funghi porcini, gambo compreso. Estraete il midollo dalle ossa. Mettete la cipolla in pentola con  burro e midollo (io ho ridotto un po’ il burro e aggiunto un filo d’olio), fate appassire la cipolla  e sciogliere il midollo a fuoco dolce; dunque aggiungete il riso e i porcini e fatelo tostare. Versate il vino bianco e fate evaporare.

Come sempre occorre fare per i risotti tenete sul fornello accanto, un pentolino con dentro del liquido a bollore (in questo caso del brodo di carne) per bagnare il riso e portarlo a cottura.

Dunque quando il vino sarà evaporato versare due mestoli di brodo bollente e poco sapido, aggiustate di sale tenendo conto della sapidità del brodo e del parmigiano o grana che aggiungerete. Aspettate sempre che il brodo sia assorbito prima di aggiungerne altro. Circa a fine cottura aggiungete lo zafferano, in pistilli o in polvere che sia, versandolo nel mestolo con poco brodo e sciogliendolo bene.

Ad un paio di minuti da fine cottura aggiustate di sale, spegnete lasciando il riso un po’ più che all’onda. Aggiungete parte del formaggio grattugiato e due noci di burro. Incoperchiate e fate mantecare 2-3 minuti. Scoperchiate, aggiungendo ancora un poco di burro se dovesse risultare troppo asciutto. Impiattate, cospargete del rimanente formaggio grattugiato, e servite ben caldo.

 

Cosa beviamo:  San Martino della Battaglia o Capriano del Colle, entrambi Doc

 

Note:

noi abbiamo usato due porcini surgelati. Se li fate scongelare completamente  però si ridurranno in pappa, essendo composti per la maggior parte di acqua. Quindi dopo averli tolti dal congelatore passateli un attimo sotto l’acqua calda, aspettate qualche minuto e procedete velocemente a tagliare e a mettere in pentola.

Se usate dei porcini secchi (ne basta una manciata), non utilizzate l’acqua di ammollo, come fa la stragrande maggioranza delle persone. L’acqua va buttata perché…

–         1°: se i funghi sono stati acquistati, non possiamo sapere come sono stati trattati e possono contenere terriccio e quant’altro.

–         2°: il porcino, che di per sé ha un sapore molto forte, accentua questa caratteristica essiccando, quindi l’acqua dell’ammollo andrebbe a sopraffare il gusto della preparazione.

–         Consiglio: se proprio non volete buttarla, ma solo nel caso in cui aveste pulito e seccato da voi i porcini,  potete conservare l’acqua di ammollo dopo averla debitamente filtrata, versandola nei contenitori per fare i cubetti di ghiaccio, e congelandola. Un cubetto di questa acqua ghiacciata, insieme ad un cucchiaino del “Dado classico vegetale” che abbiamo imparato a fare qui su Cuciniamo insieme.it, sarà un insaporitore che sostituirà più che degnamente un dado da brodo ai funghi commerciale.

 

Curiosità:

dovete sapere che la storia del riso italiano ha origini lontanissime: nel ‘300 ad esempio la sua coltivazione estensiva  veniva fatta pressoché esclusivamente nel napoletano, e fu da qui che si spostò anche nei terreni acquitrinosi della Pianura Padana, e nel Vercellese in particolare.

All’epoca il riso era determinante per l’alimentazione, anche se non veniva cucinato come nell’era moderna, ma perlopiù  bollito in acqua. Finché l’Anonimo Toscano, nel suo “Libro de la cocina” non fa una piccola rivoluzione, e nella sua ricetta “De’ blanmangieri” (Biancomangiare) lo riduce in farinae lo cuoce nel latte “di capra o di pecora o d’amandole” (mandorle). Certo era un biancomangiare ben diverso da quello giunto fino a noi, nel quale l’Anomino abbina alla farina di riso, petti di gallina cotti e “sfilati più sottili che puoi”, “zuccaro bianco e lardo bianco fritto” e “zenzovo bianco tagliato”.

Si continua a bollire in acqua fino ad arrivare a cavallo tra il 1600 e il 1700, quando nel ricettario del parigino Massialot, tradotto in italiano nel 1724, questi non consiglia di bollirlo nel brodo, condito con limone, o con sugo di castrato o con cannella, per accompagnare capponi e galline. Interessante notare come all’epoca fosse normale mescolare dolce e carni, e molto spesso l’uso delle spezie serviva per coprire i sapori troppo “forti” a causa degli scarsi metodi di conservazione degli alimenti.

La prima traccia che più si avvicina al risotto alla milanese dei nostri giorni risale alla fine del 1700, quando un anonimo in un volume sulla scienza del cibo scrive come “Far zuppa di riso alla milanese”, dove il riso viene sì lessato in acqua salata, ma aggiunge abbondante burro, e lo condisce con cannella, parmigiano grattugiato e tuorli d’uovo per dargli il colore giallo-oro.

Diverse furono da allora le forme per cucinarlo,  ma finalmente se ne ha traccia agli inizi del 1800, dove fa la sua comparsa il “riso giallo in padella”, e nel 1829 un celebre cuoco meneghino fa stampare il libro “”Nuovo cuoco milanese economico”, nel quale per la prima volta si cita la ricetta del risotto alla milanese giallo, con l’introduzione dello zafferano, che però differisce ancora da quella moderna. Poi l’Artusi fornirà ben due ricette, una con midollo e vino bianco, la seconda senza. In ultimo, Gualtiero Marchesi perfezionerà la ricetta in modo non molto dissimile da quella fatta da noi, se non per la tecnica un po’ più elaborata.

 

 

 

 

Meal: Food type:

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